Food Adventures in North Cornwall Trail

by Jerome W. Barra
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This adventure around the picturesque Camel Trail starts with a leisurely stroll around the lovely old town of Wadebridge. As is typical of so many Cornish towns, Wadebridge has retained its independent businesses and thereby its individuality, so take a peek at The Old Forge Fish Shop, Wadebridge Wines, and some of the traditional butchers, before enjoying a quick espresso made with Cornish roasted Origin coffee, at the Relish Deli Café.  The owner, Hugo, is a past UK Barista Champion and really knows his stuff.

Duly refreshed, prepare to feel 10 years old again as you whizz along the Camel Trail – excited and free. You can hire bikes from a number of outlets in Wadebridge – or bring your own!  Don’t forget to pop into Kernow Harvest, where you can stock up on the essentials: Cornish water from Just Water in Bodmin and Kernow Chocolate – for an emergency energy boost of course – before setting off on the 6-mile jaunt to Padstow.

Because the trail has been created from a disused railway line it is reasonably level and therefore not too challenging even if you have not cycled for years.  But as you wind along the Camel estuary, make sure you stop a while to enjoy the breathtaking views (and some chocolate).

On arrival in Padstow lock up the bikes and catch your breath by strolling the short distance into town to soak up the hustle and bustle of harbor life.  If hunger levels are starting to rise, you are spoiled for choice in this town now synonymous with good food.  Take your pick from any of Rick Stein’s numerous establishments, or one of the arrays of other cafes and restaurants.  Padstow is also home to the prize-winning Chough Bakery on the quayside – try their pasties!

A quick pint of St Austell Brewery’s award-winning ‘Tribute’ at Shipwrights pub will do wonders for the fluid levels and if you are ready for the wind in your hair once again, hop on the ‘Black Tor’, Padstow’s “ferry ‘cross the Camel”, which will bob you across to Rock avoiding the infamous ‘Doom Bar’ sandbank at the mouth of the River Camel, which has caught out so many sailors over the centuries.

Now’s the chance to relax for a while. Soak up a few rays on the sheltered Daymer Bay Beach, or from the dunes perhaps watch the kite surfers jumping waves.  Alternatively, a stroll through the golf course will take you to the charming St Enodoc Church, Betjeman’s resting place. The twisted spire is bound to catch your eye.

For keen adventurers, you can extend the walk along the coast to Polzeath, but for those less energetic, a stop at the Mariners pub to enjoy a Doom Bar, the famous tipple from nearby Sharp’s Brewery, might fit the bill. You could even find yourself sufficiently tempted by the stunning estuary views and the fine selection of dishes made from local produce, to stay for an early dinner at the pub’s Tides Restaurant.

The menu caters to a wide range of tastes and typically includes Porthilly Oysters and Cornish Blue, a world-class cheese made on Bodmin Moor near where the River Camel rises.

It would be easy to while away an evening here but you won’t want to miss the last ferry back to Padstow and your waiting bikes.  At this point, the Camel Trail may no longer feel quite so inviting, but once back in the saddle the ride back to Wadebridge will be over in a flash and you’ll feel tired but happy, having had the adventure to remember.

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